As I said, unless you move into Mayuri, you can only scratch the surface of its menu. I tried a couple of dishes simply because I'd never had them before. Kheema masala is a dish of minced lamb with green peas in a relatively mild sauce. The combination of the sweet peas and lamb's natural flavor created a dish that was almost springlike — at the very least, brighter and more verdant than the average Indian dish.

When we asked our server for his pick among the vegetable dishes, he pointed us to bhendi masala, an okra stir-fry. The menu describes this rather unappetizingly as a "semi-dry" stir-fry, but the okra had released enough of its own liquid to be tender, if not sauce-like — crucially, it lacked the sliminess often associated with the vegetable. A mélange of spices and a pinch of heat punched up the flavor without masking okra's essence.

Service on my visits was efficient, though drink orders did take an unaccountably long time to arrive, for nothing more complicated than bottled beer and wine by the glass. A heartening moment: We happened to visit on the weekend of the Hindu festival Diwali, and our waiter brought us a complimentary celebratory dessert, a sponge cake in a thick, sweet syrup. The dessert was far sweeter than I prefer, but the syrup was so thick that it coated my mouth, finally extinguishing the lingering heat of that Andhra chicken.

Nagabhushanam, Mayuri's head chef, once worked at the Viceroy Hotel in Hyderabad, India.
Nagabhushanam, Mayuri's head chef, once worked at the Viceroy Hotel in Hyderabad, India.

Location Info

Map

Mayuri

12513 Olive Blvd.
Creve Coeur, MO 63141

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: Creve Coeur

Details


Go into the kitchen at Mayuri with our slide show.

Mayuri
Bhendi masala...$10.95
Andhra chicken...$11.95
Lamb vindaloo...$12.95
12513 Olive Boulevard, Creve Coeur; 314-576-7272.
Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat.-Sun. Dinner 5-10 p.m. Sun.-Thu., 5-10:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

Which just means I have a new challenge: Find a dish so hot that even syrup can't quell its fire.

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