2. Garlic-crusted chicken breast
Monarch, 7401 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-644-3995
[“Josh Almighty,” January 22, 2009]
Chicken dishes are often a sop to the unadventurous diner, but chef Josh Galliano's garlic-crusted chicken breast is a winner — though here the chicken really plays a supporting role to the garlic. Not only is there the garlic crust, but also a purée of black garlic, which marries the subtle flavor of roasted garlic to the tannic edge of raisins and adds a striking grace note to this dish. This might not sound especially exciting, but it strikes me as Galliano's most impressive creation: Without calling attention to itself — no clever names, no showy presentation — it takes the humble pleasure of a roast-chicken dinner and presents it in a new and interesting form.

Some good pies being made at The Good Pie.
Some good pies being made at The Good Pie.
Octopus at Taste by Niche.
Octopus at Taste by Niche.

Location Info



12513 Olive Blvd.
Creve Coeur, MO 63141

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: Creve Coeur


1. Octopus
Taste by Niche, 1831 Sidney Street; 314-773-7755
[“Accounting for Taste,” October 15, 2009]
Each serving — each bite — was a revelation. I didn't know octopus could be this delicious, or this tender. The tentacles are roasted with onion and olive oil before service. They shrink considerably and take on a texture closer to buttery scallops than their own chewy nature. They are served chilled in a light red-pepper oil with slices of potato confit and a garnish of pea shoots with preserved-lemon sauce. (Since my review was published, the octopus preparation has changed. Still, it was merely one of several Taste dishes — including the roasted-radish bruschetta, the Moroccan lamb — that could have held the top spot. Go.)

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