Yagu Asian Fusion is too flashy for its own good

Comments (0) By Ian Froeb Wednesday, Apr 28 2010

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Jennifer Silverberg

See a slideshow from Yagu Asian Fusion restaurant in Chesterfield.

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Yagu Asian Fusion Cuisine

17265 Chesterfield Airport Road
Chesterfield, MO 63005

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: Chesterfield

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Details

Yagu Asian Fusion
Miso...$2
Malaysian red curry...$10
Duck breast...$17

17265 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield; 636-536-3739.
Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon-Fri., noon-3 p.m. Sat.
Dinner 3-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 3-11 p.m. Sat., noon-10 p.m. Sun.

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The shrimp entrée fared better, each piece butterflied and then wrapped around a slice of avocado to add a light, fresh flavor. Still, the dish lacked that extra something, an inspired grace note, to make it memorable. This is the problem at the heart of Yagu. It isn't an "Asian Fusion" restaurant but an "Every Popular Asian Dish and the Kitchen Sink" restaurant. I suppose this makes sense from a business standpoint, appealing to the modern American diner, afflicted with food-attention-deficit disorder. But when you make such a blatant appeal to perceived popular taste and try to offer something for everyone, you rarely offer something of yourself.

Perhaps one day the light will go off in Yagu's kitchen, and they will refine their fare to make it truly distinctive. Then again, between the weird orange lights and the sushi with multicolored ground effects, if that light did go off, would anyone see it?