Lofty ambitions: Four-month-old Lola has got style and substance.
Robert Boston
Lofty ambitions: Four-month-old Lola has got style and substance.

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Lola

500 N. 14th St.
St. Louis, MO 63103

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: St. Louis - Downtown

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Lola
Polenta fries...$7
"Delilah" crêpe...$11.50
Lamb "Lolis"...$12
500 North 14th Street; 314-621-7277.
Hours: 4-10 p.m. Mon, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tue.-Thu., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri., 2-11 p.m. Sat., 2-10 p.m. Sun.
Brunch 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Sat.-Sun. (Bar open with limited menu till 1:30 a.m. Mon.-Sat., till midnight Sun.)

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The cocktail list is impressive, composed with a mixologist's enthusiasm rather than a penchant for gimmicks. Besides "The Printer's," I enjoyed the "Castro," a very strong margarita made with Dos Lunas añejo tequila, Cointreau, fresh lime juice and a floated shot of Grand Marnier. The wine list is brief and reasonably priced, mainly late-vintage French whites and reds.

Fair warning: The restaurant is loud, and not only when rival bachelorette parties are preparing to do the Jets vs. Sharks dance. Even on a weekday evening, with few tables filled, live music and the rise in conversational volume that it causes fills the space. But the vibe is laid-back, the food and drink good, and the overall energy is a welcome change of pace from the usual trend-humping clatter of the loft district. Besides, Lola will have plenty of time to settle down when she's older.

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