At this point, a fog of war started to settle in, and my memories of dessert are hazy. I do recall a delicious lemon tart paired with a verdant basil ice cream.

The restaurant is utterly without pretension — almost to a fault. The wine and beer lists are merely OK, not quite at the level that the cuisine demands. The interior (a modest dining room and a smaller bar area) is bland, the décor limited to a few photographs and a couple of generic oil paintings, the latter seemingly borrowed from an older restaurant. Thanks to the hardwood floors and pressed-tin ceilings, it can get very loud.

Given the history of this particular address, though, you can hardly blame Willmann for focusing so intently on the food. The promise of a great meal, not the latest concept, will draw diners to any address. The menu even includes a way, unique to me, to offer a small reward to the kitchen: "Brews for the Kitchen Crew" — essentially a tip, dispatched in two-dollar increments, that the kitchen staff pools at the end of the night.

Hell of a 'haus: Lindenwood Park's Farmhaus is the year's best new restaurant. See a full slideshow from Farmhaus.
Hell of a 'haus: Lindenwood Park's Farmhaus is the year's best new restaurant. See a full slideshow from Farmhaus.

Location Info

Map

Farmhaus

3257 Ivanhoe Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63139

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - South City

Details

Farmhaus
"Breakfast"...$12
Escolar...$15
Duck breast...$22
3257 Ivanhoe Avenue; 314-647-3800.
Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri. Dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Wed.-Thu., 5:30-11 p.m. Fri., 6-11 p.m. Sat.

This isn't mandatory. Our server didn't even mention it until I asked what the deal was. And if you don't feel compelled to buy Willmann and his crew a beer on your first visit, odds are you'll eventually want to. You ought to have plenty of opportunities. Unlike its less fortunate predecessors, Farmhaus is bound to be here for a while.

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