Yes, there are entrées besides steak, and though I do not go to a steak house for anything other than red meat, I was impressed by the thoughtful preparation of the "Halibut Forte." The exterior of the thick piece of fish was beautifully browned, while the interior was firm and snow white. It was sauced in a rich lemon-butter sauce with crab meat, mushrooms, spinach and asparagus — decadent enough that you could pretend you'd ordered steak. (Almost, anyway.)

There is a raw bar, with shrimp cocktail (presented in a hilariously oversized glass), stone crab, sushi rolls and raw oysters, this last item exquisite, plump and sweet, and kissed by the sea. Appetizers include admirably understated ravioli filled with buffalo-milk ricotta and topped with San Marzano tomatoes, sage and serrano ham. The crab bisque, stoked with a generous serving of actual crab meat, is the best I've had outside the East Coast.

The wine list is of the breadth that wins Wine Spectator awards. The dessert list, alas, is perfunctory (cheesecake, crème brûlée, flourless chocolate cake). Service varies. On our first visit, we had a professional server of the sort who is more annoyed than you are that your appetizers arrived at separate times. On our second visit, we felt ignored by our server and the runners for much of the time — unacceptable when the final cost for two diners, with a reasonable wine selection, will exceed $200.

Ace of Steaks: Jeff Ruby's brings high style, high prices and high-quality meat to River City Casino. See more photos from Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse.
Ace of Steaks: Jeff Ruby's brings high style, high prices and high-quality meat to River City Casino. See more photos from Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse.

Location Info

Map

Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse

777 River City Casino Blvd.
South St. Louis County, MO 63125

Category: Restaurant > Steakhouse

Region: Mehlville/ Oakville/ Lemay

Details

Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse
Halibut...$35
Strip steak (bone-in)...$45
"Ruby's Jewel"...$49
777 River City Casino Boulevard, south St. Louis County; 314-388-7630.
Hours: 5-10 p.m. Sun.-Thu., 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

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More About

Don't visit Jeff Ruby's expecting to skimp. It is a restaurant that exists not to meet the latest trends in preparation or sustainability but to cater to your fantasy of indulgence. And while it might not be a fairy tale, it certainly provides a happy ending.

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