Kirkwood's One 19 North is a step in the right direction.
Jennifer Silverberg
Kirkwood's One 19 North is a step in the right direction.

There are wine bars in St. Louis — not many of them, granted, but they do exist — where the owner or manager or sommelier makes a concerted effort to find wines that are, first and foremost, delicious, but also different from the same brands that everyone else (and their distributors) peddles and, crucially, reasonably priced. Not that One 19 North has to scrap the entire wine list and start over, but when your kitchen is willing to push the small-plates format beyond the tried-and-true, why shouldn't your bar make the same effort?

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