Bliss out on comfort food at the Tavern Kitchen & Bar

Comments (0) By Ian Froeb Thursday, Dec 23 2010

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Jennifer Silverberg

The large, open kitchen with counter service at the Tavern Kitchen & Bar.

Location Info

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The Tavern Kitchen & Bar

2961 Dougherty Ferry Road
Kirkwood, MO 63122

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Kirkwood

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Details

The Tavern Kitchen & Bar
"Bacon & Eggs"...$12
Pappardelle...$14
Pork tenderloin...$18

2961 Dougherty Ferry Road, Valley Park; 636-825-0600.
Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Tue.-Fri., 5-11 p.m. Sat., 5-9 p.m. Sun.

More About

It's no complaint to say the tater-tot casserole is the menu's sole surprise — and not simply because the surprise is more along the lines of "I can't believe I ordered this, and it's good!" The Tavern isn't seeking to reinvent the wheel. Pork belly, braised beef short ribs and housemade pasta have been trendy among a certain group of restaurants — New American, contemporary bistros, whatever you want to call 'em — for several years now. But there is value to a restaurant that does such things well and dares to do them in a suburban or even exurban setting more likely to house a fast-casual or bar-and-grill chain.

Is it "upscale comfort food"? Sometimes. Whatever you call it, more often than not, it's good. Which, most days, is comfort enough.