Remembrance of Wings (and Curries and Briskets) Past: The Best Dishes of 2010

Jennifer Silverberg

Farmhaus' Kevin Willmann with girlfriend and front-of-the-house manager, Jessica Hanzlick.

Location Info

Map

Flavors BBQ Sports Bar & Grill

4317 Manchester Ave.
Maplewood, MO 63143

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: Maplewood

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The Vine Mediterranean Cafe & Market

3171 S. Grand Blvd.
St. Louis, MO 63118

Category: Restaurant > Lebanese

Region: St. Louis - South City

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The Tavern Kitchen & Bar

2961 Dougherty Ferry Road
Kirkwood, MO 63122

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Kirkwood

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Mama Josephine's

4000 Shaw Blvd.
St. Louis, MO 63110

Category: Restaurant > Comfort Foods

Region: St. Louis - Tower Grove

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PM BBQ

Long Road & Edison Ave.
Chesterfield, MO 63005

Category: Restaurant > Barbecue

Region: Chesterfield

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Taqueria Durango

10238 Page Ave.
Overland, MO 63132

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Olivette/ Overland

Menu Photos

Brasserie by Niche

4580 Laclede Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63108

Category: Restaurant > French

Region: St. Louis - Central West End

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Milagro Modern Mexican

20 Allen Ave.
Webster Groves, MO 63119

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Webster Groves

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Addie's Thai House

13441 Olive Blvd.
Chesterfield, MO 63017

Category: Restaurant > Thai

Region: Chesterfield

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Farmhaus

3257 Ivanhoe Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63139

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - South City

Photos

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More About

• Kevin Willmann
• Mama Josephine
• Durango
• Main Dish Recipes
• Food and Cooking

2. Gang kua ped yang (red curry with duck) at Addie's Thai House, 13441 Olive Boulevard, Chesterfield; 314-469-1660. The best Thai curry I've eaten in St. Louis, probably the best Thai dish I've had here and maybe the best duck dish, period. Remarkably, though the duck was chopped into half a dozen pieces and served (along with tomato, red bell pepper and pineapple) with at least part of each piece submerged in the curry, the skin retained its crispness, with just enough fat rendered that the meat gained flavor without losing its luscious nature. Like all good curries, this one was too complex to pinpoint any one ingredient; its initial brightness yielded to a good balance of savory and sweet and a lingering chile-generated warmth. Even at four stars on a four-star spiciness scale, the heat didn't obscure the subtle seasoning, and it provided a necessary counterweight to the sweetness of the coconut milk and pineapple. "Dear Addie," October 21, 2010

1. Poached escolar at Farmhaus, 3257 Ivanhoe Avenue; 314-647-3800. Since adolescence, chef and owner Kevin Willmann has been an avid fisherman, and his abiding love for the sea is manifested on the plate. My favorite dish of his seafood dishes was a Hawaiian escolar fillet poached in butter, dill and traminette (a semi-dry white wine) from Missouri's Chaumette Winery, served with grilled asparagus and two grilled blue prawns. The poaching liquid turned the fish, already very fatty by nature, decadently luscious, and the asparagus was plump and strongly flavored, but it was the blue prawns that made this dish. These were far more flavorful than your run-of-the-mill shrimp, with a beguiling briny sweetness. As a bonus, they were served head-on, so you could suck out the tastiest juices as you would with a crawfish. "'Haus Rules," June 10, 2010