Instead of plain old carpaccio, there is a trio of grass-fed tenderloin carpaccios, each of three tissue-thin pieces of raw beef (quite good by themselves) paired with a different accompaniment. Of these, a garlic aioli with a little peppery arugula mixed in is the best. There is also an autumnal arrangement of shiitake and hon shimeji (an uncommon East Asian variety) mushrooms flavored with apple saba and a shaving of Grana Padano cheese. The third concoction, a blend of black-garlic ponzu and ginger "bubbles," overwhelms the delicate beef.

Bubbles, emulsion, foams: There is something of the New American cliché to Prime 1000's approaches. Look past these, though, and you see a steak house lavishing more care on the ancillary dishes than we're used to seeing around these parts. Sampling a non-steak entrée at a steak house is usually a chore, but the black bass here is stupendous, a perfectly seared piece of tender fish, its ocean flavor deepened by an uni emulsion — yes, another emulsion, but this one at least tastes good — and contrasted by large pieces of candied bacon.

Prime 1000 falters, though, with two important elements of any steak house: the wine list and the service. The wine list doesn't match the caliber of the restaurant, neither broad nor deep, with a few token trophy wines like Opus One added as an attempt at a veneer. Service is rushed for a restaurant of this caliber (and it's a crapshoot whether you'll receive the excellent bread service, which includes saffron-spiked butter). Dessert was also hit-or-miss: Squash bread with dulce de leche ice cream and pepitas was excellent, but spice cake tasted of two days in the fridge.

Prime 1000's New York strip steak. Click here to view more photos from Prime 1000.
Jennifer Silverberg
Prime 1000's New York strip steak. Click here to view more photos from Prime 1000.

Location Info

Map

Prime 1000

1000 Washington Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63101

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - Washington Avenue

Details

Prime 1000
Sweetbreads...$14
Grass-fed strip steak...$29
Bone-in rib eye...$44
1000 Washington Avenue; 314-241-1000.
Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 5-11 p.m. Sat.
(Closed Sun.; bar open till 1 a.m. Mon.-Sat.)

Burnish these aspects of the restaurant, and not only will Prime 1000 stand out, thanks to its eye-catching dry-aging chamber and undeniably swank setting, it will prosper.

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