After curing, the ribs are steamed at low temperature for three to four hours and then, when you order it, given a quick charring. The flavor is almost indescribable. An initial hit of olive oil and lemon slices through the browned exterior, then gives way to the complexity of the ras-el-hanout, whose warmth and pungency fills out the pork's natural blend of savor and sweetness. The meat is so tender that, again, if you didn't know, you might assume it had cooked low and slow over smoldering wood.
For added pop, on the side is a serving of Salume Beddu's sott' aceto, a bracing relish made from fennel, celery, chiles, mint and garlic, which are steeped in vinegar for anywhere from a couple of hours to a couple of days. This is also good eaten directly with a spoon, or so, um, I've been told.
3467 Hampton Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63139
Category: Restaurant > Italian
Region: St. Louis - The Hill
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The ribs aren't always available, so if you're desperate to try them, you might want to call ahead. Then again, everything here is worth trying. The word unique gets thrown around all too often (and nearly always misused), but even when Salume Beddu was "only" a salumeria, there was nothing like it in St. Louis.
Now that it serves lunch, too — well, unique is unique; nothing can be "more unique." But as good as it was, Beddu just got better.
I should not look at food like this before breakfast. I am to poor for this kind of cuisine anyway. The closest I get to this is applebees. It's hopeless.
Oh, man, I'm so sorry, Alex. No excuses. I posted a correction on Gut Check, and we'll fix the online version as soon as we can. Again, my sincere apologies.
And if it's available, take home some of that fig tapenade: sweet, salty, and with a hit of pepper at the end, it's as addictive as Beddu's sandwiches.
