Another entrée, a single golden trout fillet, looks terrific when it is set before you. As a dish, however, it is inherently flawed. The fish is perfectly sautéed, moist at the center, the skin on the fillet's underside crisp, but it is done in by a too-generous topping of chilled beets. The beets' burgundy juice stained the trout and the bed of spinach on which it sat, and their flavor overwhelmed the dish as a whole. If anything the kitchen needs to make this dish more modest: The trout should be the centerpiece, not the beets.

Water Street on the Maplewood strip combines modern decor with mid-century modern touches.
JENNIFER SILVERBERG
Water Street on the Maplewood strip combines modern decor with mid-century modern touches.
The beer brisket sandwich is served with coleslaw and citrus potato salad.
JENNIFER SILVERBERG
The beer brisket sandwich is served with coleslaw and citrus potato salad.

Location Info

Map

Water Street Cafe and Cocktail Bar

7268 Manchester Road
Maplewood, MO 63143

Category: Restaurant > Cafe

Region: Maplewood

Details

Water Street Café
Cucumber...$5
Flatbread...$12
Beer-braised brisket...$13

There's something charming about the division of Water Street between brother and sister, bar and kitchen, cocktails as alchemical as the "Widow's Kiss" and cuisine as simple as a cucumber. Given a little time, they have the potential to merge, like two cool, clear streams, into one.

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