Desserts include a simple tart of seasonal berries topped with salted-caramel ice cream, and that inescapable local favorite, bread pudding with bourbon sauce, here distinguished by lingonberries. This, too, is served in a Mason jar, which is cute, but spooning the stuff out of there is a bit more work than it is worth.
On my visits, the service was very good, especially given how busy the restaurant was. However, I was definitely made as a restaurant critic, so you should take that analysis with a grain of, um, salt.
Jennifer Silverberg
Jennifer Silverberg
The rustic tart made with local peaches from Nature's Way. Click here for more photos of
Wes Johnson's Salt.
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Salt
Seared scallop...$9
Duck fat-fried chicken...$17
Sorghum-lacquered duck...$19
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The wine list is modest in scope: domestic and Old World reds, most in the $30 to $60 range; whites offer more variety, but fewer selections. The "culinary cocktails" include the "Ornery Hound," a refreshingly tart and subtly complex concoction of gin, yellow Chartreuse, grapefruit bitters and fresh ruby-red grapefruit juice.
The "culinary cocktails" moniker is a rare note of pretension in a restaurant otherwise refreshingly free of it. Johnson's team, he says, is "just trying to enjoy ourselves — to be professional, but not so serious."
I hope that Johnson won't mind me concluding on a more serious note, then: Salt is the best new restaurant to open in St. Louis so far this year.