The menu categorizes four dishes as "Fork and Knife" — entrées, in other words: two steaks (a rib eye and a filet), a salmon fillet and a chicken breast, all four cooked in the brick oven. Each comes with your choice of one side from a selection that might have been thrown together at random: a half-portion of a salad, a baked potato, broccoli, beets.

I opted for the rib eye, medium-rare. The exterior had a decent char — not the crust you'd get at a steak house, but better than from a conventional grill. The interior was the appropriate temperature at the center, less so toward either end. Melted butter with red-pepper flakes topped the steak. It added a touch of heat, and a boost of sweet fat, but it also cloaked any smokiness the oak might have imparted.

Twin brothers Curt and Casey Friedrich own the restaurant with their father Bill.
Jennifer Silverberg
Twin brothers Curt and Casey Friedrich own the restaurant with their father Bill.
The chicken wings are prepared in the wood-fired oven and tossed in your choice of four sauces — shown here with honey-chipotle.
Jennifer Silverberg
The chicken wings are prepared in the wood-fired oven and tossed in your choice of four sauces — shown here with honey-chipotle.

Location Info

Map

twinOak Wood-Fired Fare

1201 Strassner Drive
Brentwood, MO 63144

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Brentwood

Details

twinOak Wood Fired Fare
Chicken wings...$7
"Gringo Star" pizza...$12
Rib eye...$24
1201 Strassner Drive, Brentwood; 314-644-2772.
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.-Thu., 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

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Actually, other than the wings, no dishes here suggested even a hint of smoke. Aside from the pizza, none made a convincing argument for including "wood fired" (or "wood and gas fired") in twinOak's name. A brick oven is a beautiful tool, but it does not a restaurant make.

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