Weirdly, the back of Liluma's Side Door's menu includes a very brief wine list: one white and one red, presented as a special value and priced at $15 apiece. I'm no sommelier, but I've ordered wine from a whole lot of wine lists, and the markup on a $15 bottle has got to be pretty small if it's truly a "value." (As in approaching zero.) I asked our server what he thought of the red. He responded with a dismissive shake of the head. We asked to see Liluma's list instead.

I suppose a fellow should appreciate it when his waiter steers him clear of plonk. Yet something about his brusque, wordless dismissal irked me. When I thought about it, I realized that on every visit to Liluma's Side Door I got the sense the staff sees the venture as a hassle, an unfortunate and inferior appendage to the real restaurant.

Chef Brad Watts.
Jennifer Silverberg
Chef Brad Watts.

Location Info

Map

Liluma Side Door-CLOSED

236 N. Euclid Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63108

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - Central West End

Details

Liluma's Side Door
"Fried Bologna"...$4
"Ducks in a Lake"...$7
"Fish and Chips"...$10
236 North Euclid Avenue; 314-361-7771.
Hours: Open from 5 p.m. daily, except Sun.

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Fiala has a good idea, and he and Watts are cooking good, fun food that's priced to move. Evidently I'm the only guy in St. Louis who has figured that out, though. Or maybe it's The Matrix after all.

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