Eighty-Six the Pork "Wings": Market Grill gets a menu makeover and a sharp new chef

A A A Comments (0) By Ian Froeb Thursday, Dec 15 2011

The only misfire on my visits was the dry-aged, grass-fed strip steak, and this was the fault of the cut rather than the cook: Gristle marred an otherwise flavorful piece of meat. (Olson says that should be remedied soon. I should also mention that he knows me by sight; dining incognito wasn't on the menu for this review.) The steak was served on a puddle of celery-root purée and topped with a saffron-parsnip sauce, both smart autumnal touches.

Desserts range from the straightforward (a tart made with Jonathan apples and topped with salted-caramel ice cream) to the adventurous (a chocolate-habanero bread pudding, very thick and very spicy). Ice cream flavored with Tuaca, a vanilla-citrus liqueur, helps cut the heat.

Jennifer Silverberg

New executive chef Jonathan Olson at work in the Market Grill kitchen.

Location Info

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Market Grill

728 Lafayette Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63104

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - Clayton

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Details

Market Grill
Mac & Cheese Gougères...$5
Scallops...$18
Sea bass...$22

728 Lafayette Avenue; 314-436-7664. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat. (Closed Sun. Bar open till 10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.)

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The menu instructs you to ask about the strawberry-ghost pepper sorbet. Even a small spoonful is fearsome, the heat immediate, brutal and long-lasting — and, it should go without saying, a far cry from pork wings.