The only misfire on my visits was the dry-aged, grass-fed strip steak, and this was the fault of the cut rather than the cook: Gristle marred an otherwise flavorful piece of meat. (Olson says that should be remedied soon. I should also mention that he knows me by sight; dining incognito wasn't on the menu for this review.) The steak was served on a puddle of celery-root purée and topped with a saffron-parsnip sauce, both smart autumnal touches.

Desserts range from the straightforward (a tart made with Jonathan apples and topped with salted-caramel ice cream) to the adventurous (a chocolate-habanero bread pudding, very thick and very spicy). Ice cream flavored with Tuaca, a vanilla-citrus liqueur, helps cut the heat.

New executive chef Jonathan Olson at work in the Market Grill kitchen.
Jennifer Silverberg
New executive chef Jonathan Olson at work in the Market Grill kitchen.

Location Info


Market Grill

728 Lafayette Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63104

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - Soulard


Market Grill
Mac & Cheese Gougères...$5
Sea bass...$22
728 Lafayette Avenue; 314-436-7664. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat. (Closed Sun. Bar open till 10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.)

The menu instructs you to ask about the strawberry-ghost pepper sorbet. Even a small spoonful is fearsome, the heat immediate, brutal and long-lasting — and, it should go without saying, a far cry from pork wings.

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