Three main dishes — seared scallops, grilled salmon and pasta with clams or shrimp (or both) — are served with a miso-cream sauce. And it is here that Hooked strays into the strange and treacherous fish-joint Bermuda Triangle, where the kitchen isn't content to let the seafood speak for itself. Though you can taste the miso, the cream sauce is bland. The seared scallops, generously portioned, looked like a pretty good deal at $15.95, but they were gritty enough that not even the world's most excellent miso-cream sauce could have redeemed them. A similar fate befell a bowl of mussels steamed in Corona beer, garlic and cilantro. The broth didn't add much, several of the mussels hadn't opened and those that did were considerably overcooked.

The kitchen is clearly capable of making the right choices, and for proof one need look no further than the menu's priciest options: a cluster of snow-crab legs or a lobster tail, simply steamed and served with drawn butter. Snow crab isn't the meatiest creature, but when it's good, it's very good — and Hooked's was good indeed, tender and lightly sweet.

Grilled Shrimp Po' Boy with sweet potato fries.
Jennifer Silverberg
Grilled Shrimp Po' Boy with sweet potato fries.

Location Info

Map

Hooked Seafood Bar

8613 Olive Blvd.
St. Louis, MO 63132

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Olivette/ Overland

Details

Hooked Seafood Bar 8613 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-997-8886. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-midnight Sun.-Thu., 11:30 a.m.-1:30 a.m. Fri.-Sat. (Closed Mon.)

Did I happily forgo the tiny-tined fork our server furnished along with a claw cracker and dig out the crab meat with my fat, buttered fingers? You bet I did. This is, after all, a seafood shack.

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