For those who seek a different illusion of variety, there's "Chardonnay Chicken": two boneless breasts marinated in wine, grilled, then extinguished by immersion in a pungent Dijon mustard sauce. The dish exposed another aspect of EdgeWild's unadventurous approach: The chicken was served atop "Garlic Mashers" (please stop using this term) and a few stalks of asparagus. The kitchen did a fine job with the asparagus, ensuring that it reached the table al dente; the potatoes were nothing to write home about, but there's only so much one can expect from...mashers. The same sides accompanied a grilled strip steak. The scallops came with green beans and a rosemary risotto that tasted of cream, which only served to underscore how insipid that butternut-squash purée was.

Look to the sandwich menu for the most reliable dish: a burger. The "Midwest Burger," to be precise: It's not flashy, just tasty, a loose patty of ground beef seasoned simply and cooked just the way I'd ordered it (medium rare), with crisp, thick-sliced bacon and melted white cheddar. The burger came with good, crisp French fries, sprinkled with a light garlic-herb seasoning, that yielded to a slightly fluffy interior.

Drawing from a list of fourteen reds and fourteen whites from the west coast bottled under either the EdgeWild or Chandler Hill label (most are priced between $30 and $45 per bottle), the menu suggests a wine pairing for every single dish. (Imagine that!) There's also a selection of EdgeWild and Chandler Hill wines from Missouri, including four fruit wines (blackberry, raspberry, peach and strawberry) and a couple of fortified dessert wines. Aside from the grüner veltliner (and those fruit wines), there are no eyebrow-raisers: pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc.

Steak Bruschetta - rosemary flank steak, blue cheese, arugula, chianti braised shallots, grilled baguette, shaved Parmesan and balsamic reduction.
Jennifer Silverberg
Steak Bruschetta - rosemary flank steak, blue cheese, arugula, chianti braised shallots, grilled baguette, shaved Parmesan and balsamic reduction.

Location Info

Map

EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery

550 Chesterfield Center
Chesterfield, MO 63017

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Town & Country

Details

EdgeWild Restaurant and Winery
"Kahlua Buns"...$9
"Chardonnay Chicken"...$16
"Mâcon Seared Scallops"...$23
550 Chesterfield Center, Chesterfield; 636-532-0550.
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat., 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.

Maybe it's just a coincidence that the suggested pairing for the "Kahlua Buns" is the grüner veltliner. Neither is perfect, but they're both outliers. Edgy? Wild? Stranger things have happened.

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