Yes, you can still order a burger and a beer, but the burger is now a ten-ounce patty of ground chuck from locally raised beef. At a medium-rare temperature, the flavor is exceptional, purely beefy with a smack of iron. It must join the ranks of St. Louis' best burgers. Lewis doesn't assemble a standout BLT so much as craft it — from house-cured bacon and wedges of crisp, tart fried green tomatoes with mixed greens and a Cajun-spiced mayo.

Quincy Street's entrées (or "suppers," as the menu dubs them) include catfish dredged in cornmeal and then deep-fried. (This is also available as the main event in a po' boy sandwich.) The fish is remarkably moist under its jacket of cornmeal, and it has none of the unpleasant oiliness for which the species is notorious. A buttermilk soak deepens the flavor of a boneless chicken breast dredged in flour and pan-fried. A thick coat of white gravy flecked with black pepper completed the dish.

Location Info

Map

SOHA Bar & Grill

2605 Hampton Ave.
St Louis, MO 63139

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - South City

Schoemehl's South Side Grill

7529 Michigan Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63111

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - South City

Quincy Street Bistro

6931 Gravois Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63116

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - South City

7529 Michigan Avenue; 314-932-7774. Hours: 4 p.m.-1 a.m. Mon., 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Tue.-Sun.
2605 Hampton Avenue; 314-802-7877. Hours: 4 p.m.-1:30 a.m. Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m. Fri., 4 p.m.-1:30 a.m. Sat., 4 p.m.-midnight Sun.
6931 Gravois Avenue; 314-353-1588. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. (Closed Sun. Bar open till 12:30 a.m. Mon.-Thu., till 1:30 a.m. Fri.-Sat.)

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Suppers come with your choice of two sides. With the fried chicken I opted for the thin, crisp housemade potato chips and the vegetable of the day. The latter brought a miniature mason jar with roasted carrots, beets and watermelon radish. The vegetable preparation wasn't complicated, but it was seasonally appropriate and perfectly executed, roasty-sweet with an undertone of earth. It was small but vital proof that with a talented chef committed to his craft, a neighborhood bar-and-grill can aspire to be much more.

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