I keep thinking about this black bass, actually. It was the one dish at the Restaurant that made me a bit uncomfortable. It made me think. Yes, it was another of the kitchen's "gifts," but in this case it wasn't a free appetizer or dessert; the chef sent it out between my salad and main dish, and I can't help but think it excited him, too.

The Restaurant, to put it more bluntly, is utterly safe. It doesn't allow for much creativity on the chef's part. It aims squarely for crowd-pleasing comforts — top-dollar comforts to be sure, but comforts nonetheless. Which doesn't mean it isn't delicious. That apple pie with so-overdone-it-might-be-hip-again salted-caramel ice cream? We scraped up every last flake of crust. A chocolate soufflé cake with sun-dried-cherry ice cream? Hoovered it.

The wine list features more than 1,700 bottles, though the back of the menu includes a more manageable list as well as a selection of wines by the glass. The beer list, on the other hand, is an afterthought: seven brews, a cider and Bud Light. The cocktail program is resolutely old school.

Filet mignon with roasted garlic mash, stilton bleu cheese.  Slideshow: Inside the Restaurant at the Cheshire.
Jennifer Silverberg
Filet mignon with roasted garlic mash, stilton bleu cheese. Slideshow: Inside the Restaurant at the Cheshire.

Location Info

Map

The Restaurant at the Cheshire

6300 Clayton Road
St. Louis, MO 63117

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Richmond Heights

Details

The Restaurant at the Cheshire
"Ahi Tuna, Thin and Raw"...$15
Beef brisket...$23
Strip steak...$38

Slideshow: Inside the Restaurant at the Cheshire

7036 Clayton Avenue; 314-932-7818.
Hours: Dinner 5-10 p.m. Tue-Thu., 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 5-9 p.m.
Sun. Brunch 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sun. (Closed Mon.)

Related Stories

More About

Unsurprisingly, given the number of manager types stalking about, service is excellent. When I ordered the scallops on a Friday, the server made sure to point out the bacon in the dish, as it was Lent. When a miscommunication resulted in the negroni I ordered manifesting itself as a French 75, the server and the bar made it right. Did you valet? The servers take your ticket at meal's end so your car will be ready for you.

You will leave feeling sated and coddled, even if the kitchen hasn't plied you with free bites. You do have to order for yourself, but you won't have to think.

Slideshow: Inside the Restaurant at the Cheshire

« Previous Page
 |
 
1
 
2
 
All
 
My Voice Nation Help
3 comments
JAE11
JAE11

As to paying for valet being 'petty': not everyone drives to the restaurant, why should I subsidize your parking? Makes sense to me that drivers pay for their parking.

grifterre
grifterre

Ian, I'm having a hard time w/ this one. I enjoy yr writing, but I'm perplexed by yr decision to "out yourself." How can readers legitimately get a feel for what they will encounter at a restaurant where the staff has been alerted to the presence of a kingmaker in the form of a reviewer? The experiences, as detailed in this review, are obviously NOT the same. I don't think I've ever gotten anything for free anywhere, unless it was my birthday, much less a parade of free delicacies that keeps on coming. Doesn't this taint your reviews? Can u explain?

egolterman
egolterman topcommenter

When MUNY operated 10, 12, 13 weeks, holiday weekends-close to 100 nights, it generated tens of thousands of early dinners before the shows and drinks or desserts after the shows. The strangling of MUNY to 7 weeks or less, 7 sizzling hot weeks costs restaurants, hotels and motels around the Park several million dollars a year. The Cheshire double-decker to and from MUNY banked a lot of money for the owners of the place. The Chase didnt do too badly, either. But they remained silent as the Fox began squeezing it down. Too bad. Silence is not golden it is red as in ink.

 
Loading...