At least I found an explanation for the sea bass. I still can't figure out the squid. Admittedly, that's not entirely Takaya's fault. On a recent episode of the public-radio Zeitgeist prodder This American Life, a reporter obsessively bird-dogged a rumor that (once, maybe) a pork processor somewhere had packaged pig rectums (or, as they're called in the industry, "bung") as "imitation calamari." When the investigation proved fruitless, the reporter resorted to a blind taste test in which he pitted fried calamari against fried bung. One of the two participants preferred the bung.

I was not one of the tasters, and I'm pretty damn sure I've never eaten pig-butt rings à la calamari, but I suspect that in a blind tasting I'd have chosen 'em over the deep-fried squid I ate at Takaya.

I should mention that our server did delete the calamari from the bill. That kind gesture, however, barely dented the total tab: $90, for a dinner for two. Unless you're content with a minimalist selection of nigiri, a meal at Takaya will cost you. Maybe there was a time in St. Louis when merely opening a sleek new restaurant aping a played-out culinary trend was enough to serve as one of the cornerstones of splashy new downtown development.

Location Info

Map

Takaya New Asian

634 Washington Ave.
St Louis, MO 63102

Category: Restaurant > Asian Fusion

Region: St. Louis - Downtown

Details

Takaya New Asian
Bulgogi sliders...$12
Garlic-miso bass...$21
"Tuna Carpaccio"...$23

Slideshow: Inside Takaya New Asian

634 Washington Avenue; 314-241-5721.
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. (Closed Sun.)

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In 2013, though, it comes off as a load of horse — well, you know. Rhymes with bung.

Slideshow: Inside Takaya New Asian

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2 comments
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ofcourse, froeb automatically hates anything downtown

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ofcourse, froeb automatically hates anything downtown

 
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