By far, the best dish that we tried was the "Three Little Birds," a whimsical stack of juicy game hen, chicken and quail. The meat was positively buttery, with each layer melting into the other. Galliano's Southern charm is on full display here, as scorched okra and the classic corn and vegetable dish, macque choux, gave off the right amount of sweet and savory crunch. His grits are impeccable, perhaps the creamiest I have had the pleasure of eating.

It's rare that I can be talked into passing on gooey butter cake, but our server's discussion of her impassioned love affair with the Libertine's blondie gave me pause. The rich buttery bar (that tastes an awful lot like the aforementioned St. Louis specialty) came topped with a scoop of coconut sorbet. The macadamia nut tuile that also accompanied the dessert provided a savory contrast, though it was a bit of a challenge to cut with a spoon. I ended up breaking it apart by hand and dipping it in the ice cream. (Yes, I'm a savage.)

The Libertine is as proud of its cocktail program as it is of its food, so do not miss the opportunity to try some of its concoctions. Although presently I cannot fully partake in adult beverages, I begged my dining companion to order the "Fear & Loathing" so that I could have a tiny sip. This is the Libertine's version of a rum and Coke. Do not expect the pedestrian open-bar staple. Not only does the Libertine's feature the more complex Gosling's Black Seal dark rum, but it also uses homemade cola. This soda is nothing like the industrial standard but has an almost citrus and ginger-like tangy refreshment. To add to the party, the drink is topped with pecan foam (yes, it almost tastes like pecan whipped cream) and a little lemongrass dust to brighten things.

The twice-cooked duck egg, garden-vegetable salad and chicken-fat sherry vinaigrette. Photos: Inside the Libertine in Clayton.
Jennifer Silverberg
The twice-cooked duck egg, garden-vegetable salad and chicken-fat sherry vinaigrette. Photos: Inside the Libertine in Clayton.
The dining room of the Libertine in Clayton.  Photos: Inside the Libertine in Clayton
Jennifer Silverberg
The dining room of the Libertine in Clayton. Photos: Inside the Libertine in Clayton

Location Info

Map

The Libertine

7927 Forsyth Blvd.
St. Louis, MO 63105

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Clayton

Details

The Libertine
Golden tomato sorbet...$10
Diner Burger...$11
"Three Little Birds"...$19

Photos: Inside the Libertine in Clayton
7927 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-862-2999. Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Wed-Thurs., 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5 p.m.-12 a.m. Fri., 5 p.m.-12 a.m. Sat., 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Sun., Closed on Mondays.

So, in the end, what to call the Libertine: neighborhood eatery or best new St. Louis restaurant? Either way, the hype is well deserved.

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2 comments
savory2
savory2

By far the best restaurant currently in st. louis. not even close.

abuxbaum1945
abuxbaum1945

I agree completely. May The Libertine last a very long time.

 
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