I was also surprised with the choice of ground lamb for use in the lamb stew, as larger chunks of meat hold up better in such a preparation. The piquillo pepper comingled with the lamb juices to create a deep, rich sauce, but it was incredibly salty — almost to the point of being inedible. The stew was served with a side of brown rice and vegetable salad that paired strangely. Perhaps it's boring, but I would have much preferred some sort of potato accompaniment in the place of the rice. Bizarrely, the stew was not served with a spoon. I can excuse an oversight, but if this was intentional, it was a flaw as it made the dish difficult to eat.

My dining coconspirator often says that anyone can make bread pudding, so we were disappointed with how lackluster Panorama's turned out to be. The dessert was missing the rich, custardy stickiness that defines good bread pudding and instead seemed more like a coffee cake. Three dollops of caramel served as little more than plate decoration and could not make up for the lack of moisture in the bread pudding. The buttery and salty pecan brittle provided a bright spot to an otherwise mediocre dish.

The pear crostada was also a disappointment. The crostada itself was not flaky and buttery, but instead more like a dry muffin. It broke apart so that one needed a spoon to scoop up the crumbles. The center was a sparse offering of diced, overcooked pear pieces. Although bright and tasty, I was confused as to how to incorporate the rosemary honey crème anglaise. Because of how the crostada broke apart it was impossible to dip, but pouring it over the crostada from a ramekin seemed awkward as well.

The meatloaf is made with local grass-fed beef and comes with horseradish potato cake, string beans and onions, and roasted carrot coulis. See also: Panorama Restaurant Photos.
Jennifer Silverberg
The meatloaf is made with local grass-fed beef and comes with horseradish potato cake, string beans and onions, and roasted carrot coulis. See also: Panorama Restaurant Photos.

Location Info

Map

Panorama

1 Fine Arts Drive
St. Louis, MO 63110

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - Forest Park

Details

Panorama
Warm water blue crab cakes...$9
Heritage pork meatballs...$12
Roasted local Missouri trout filet...$23

See also: Panorama Restaurant Photos
One Fine Arts Drive, Forest Park; 314-655-5490.
Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tues.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Fri., 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Sat., 10 a.m-2 p.m. Sun. Closed Monday.

There's no denying that Panorama is — like the rest of SLAM — a feast for the eyes. The trouble is, it's a restaurant, not food-themed performance art. What's funny, though, is that in all likelihood I will be back. The setting is so lovely that it (nearly) makes up for Panorama's numerous shortcomings. After all, it's said we eat with our eyes. My taste buds, however, will be out of luck.

See also: Panorama Restaurant Photos

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5 comments
butterfly91011
butterfly91011

Let's be honest... Any writer that call's themselves a "food critic" and refers to tampons in the same article is obviously lacking in class and is more tasteless than any food.  Disgusting...perhaps Ms.Baher should go back to programming.

Andy Sims
Andy Sims

Another reason for me to hate the art museum.

Trent Colquitt
Trent Colquitt

The ONLY way to truly come to a honest opinion about a restaurant is to go in person.

 
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