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Food & Drink

Best Sweet-and-Sour Tofu 

Thai Café

Probably the least advisable thing to do in an Asian restaurant is to order sweet-and-sour anything. And although this is the kind of hard-won wisdom that we don't often dispute, it's a rule proved by its exception, which in this case is the vegetarian pad sweet-and-sour at Thai Café. The experience is comfortably disorienting. The sauce is sufficiently reddish to bring to mind the bottled supermarket spilth that has ruined generation after generation's taste for sweet-and-sour dishes, but there the resemblance ends. The tofu is texture-perfect, yielding to mastication with a satisfying little squeak of defiance. The tomatoes retain a refreshing degree of structural integrity, and the pineapple chunks are meaty. The sole caveat is that the dish can be a bit heavy on the onions, which you can simply disregard as discrete edible objects, while allowing their flavor to complicate the sauce. There are rum drinks to be had as well, and we strongly advise you to order several, especially the Thai Stinker, "a magical blend of rum, cherry liquor, fruit juice and on fire."

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