Caramel? Nah, not really. It does, in fact, have just a hint of sweetness, but it's actually a black-pepper reduction that also mixes in hints of tang and saltiness, and it's served in a clay pot suitable for a miniaturized first act of Macbeth
. The thick brown sauce roils over the edges of four pieces of catfish divided into steaks and side quarters, served with an inverted dome of white rice. You have to pick out the bones, but it's worth it. Find it at Miss Saigon.