We prefer pizza that doesn't require a mouth-roof scraper -- pizza without that hideous Provel cheese. We prefer pizza made by creative types for whom pepperoni is an afterthought, who approach the crust as simply a doughy canvas. The Sunflour Café makes a great pizza, filled with combinations that seem strange on paper but make sense in your mouth: The specials on the summer menu include a hummus base with feta, kalamata olives and tomatoes; basil pesto, rum raisins and fennel-garlic sausage; russet potatoes mashed with ricotta, roasted garlic and parsley. It's a verbal mouthful, to be sure, and if the specials sound froufrou or pretentious or philosophically at odds with your conservative pizza preferences, we understand and encourage you to stick with your pepperoni and mushroom, ingredients that the Sunflour also offers. Or build your own beast using ingredients such as caramelized onions, jalapeos, pesto, pine nuts and roasted garlic. Either way, you win. What's best about Sunflour, though, is its consistency. Whether you opt for the nouveau
accoutrements or the old standards, the pizza's gonna taste great and serve its purpose of bombing your stomach. The crust has just enough heft to give it a solid flavor (available in both white and wheat), and the Sunflour is firm enough in its convictions to offer only one style of crust, not a half-dozen. A great pizza.