Brunch -- the mysterious meal between the breakfast dessert and the lunch appetizer, the bridge that connects the morning's gluttony with the noon's regret and invites the afternoon's foreboding. And yet, for all its glory, the eternal St. Louis unanswerable: Why the hell is it so hard to get a decent goddamn brunch here? Yeah, there are OK places, but where most other cities have an abundance of neighborhood breakfast spots -- and, as we'll all agree, breakfast is the best meal ever created, by far -- St. Louis has neighborhood diners instead. One and the same, some may say, and we Midwesterners got no time for mincing words: Breakfast is breakfast, and it consists of eating many different cuts of pig, and eggs. Brunch is for pussies. Breakfast is salt, pepper, ketchup, hot sauce. Brunch is all nutmeg, buckwheat, pico de gallo and infused olive oil. The bridge is always bacon, wonderful bacon, the undoing of many a vegetarian. And the best by far is at MoKaBe's. They offer it, unfortunately for those of us who would indulge in it twice a weekend, only on Sunday. MoKaBe's does it buffet style, and it's nearly vegetarian (the exception being ... bacon). Chef Patrice Mari conjures heaven in the guise of buffet: pancakes with strawberries, scrambled tofu (wince all you want, but it kicks ass), some great spicy potatoes, fresh strawberry/orange juice, pastries galore, veggie biscuits and gravy and other platters that vary from week to week. It's perfect, and for ten bucks, it's worth it -- your coffee cup is bottomless with the meal as well.
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