Sometimes we're of two minds about this Best of St. Louis business. Every once in a while, we feel a little hesitant about announcing a winner. Pizza-A-Go-Go presents just such a case. It's not that we're lukewarm about the recommendation -- quite the contrary. But enough people already know about Pizza-A-Go-Go. What's it going to accomplish, clueing in more folks that from this little hole in the wall -- a few scattered tables, an ice machine, a soda fountain, a TV set, and a pizza oven, an Italian guy and some kids in back -- come superb handcrafted pizzas with exquisitely crisp crusts? Why rock the boat? It certainly isn't going to make the pizza any better. Then again, we've got a job to do. Frank LaFata opened Pizza-A-Go-Go on South Grand in 1967. A while later he moved to the other side of the street, and then in 1997 he moved to his current, somewhat out-of-the-way location on Scanlan, off Jamieson. Frank's menu -- do you call it a menu when it's a sign on the wall? -- offers thick-crust pies. But, he says, "Most of my people prefer thin." We're not talking the frou-frou stuff; it's just the basics here: Sausage. Pepperoni. Cheese. Onions. Mushrooms. Peppers. You know, toppings that don't require a culinary dictionary to order. And you get the feeling Frank doesn't give a horse's patoot about accolades. It's the pizza he cares about. That, and his loyal patrons. "My customers, they know what to get, and they know how to get here," he says. They also know that Frank doesn't deliver and doesn't sell by the slice, and that he's closed Wednesdays. So there's your tribute to Pizza-A-Go-Go, the best pizza in town.