You were thinking Tony's or Giovanni's for this category. Well, while we wholeheartedly coo over the levels of attentiveness and care at those two fine eateries -- see "Best Restaurant When Someone Else Pays" and "Best Italian Restaurant (Not Cheap)," respectively -- time and again the help at Blueberry Hill manages to be surprisingly professional, adept, adroit and chummy even though the waiters and waitresses are all young and by no means career servers. They might not look the part, but the Hill's waitstaff truly is committed to increasing the pleasure of your dining experience. Beverages are refilled lickety-split (without request), menu questions answered in thorough and accurate detail. When the kitchen is slammed -- as is wont to happen at a place so popular -- you will be updated and assuaged well enough that getting annoyed and impatient won't occur to you. (Why can't airline gate agents handle delays as well as these kids do?) Defying assumptions about service at your typical burger-and-beer joints, the Blueberry Hill staff is hereby commended for a job very well done.