Back in the day, between 1960 and 1996, you didn't go to Cyrano's just for dessert. You went to Cyrano's to impress your date, to feel cosmopolitan, to practice being romantic and/or to hang with friends. Cyrano's combined the charm of a cozy atmosphere, small plates of food and big, decadent desserts that made most people swoon (before they lapsed into a sugar coma). The resurrection of Cyrano's is a call to once again wallow in the massive mounds of whipped cream that top the Cleopatra, to ogle wide-eyed the towering flames shooting from chafing dishes of cherries jubilee, to relish the thick meringue of baked Alaska -- all in a coolly retro yet contemporary atmosphere. The beautifully renovated new space in Webster Groves (a former DeSoto dealership) is big but still cozy. The "real food" menu is smart and trendy but designed to help you save room for dessert, whether it be an old standby like the World's Fair Eclair or a new addition, like apple tarte tatin or blackberry financier. Go ahead, we dare you: Eat dessert first.