Come across a menu item labeled "chicken fried chicken" and you're liable to think typo. Fried chicken's fried chicken, right? Well, not exactly. True, "chicken fried chicken" is a dumb name. But it's got its culinary roots in the Republic of Texas, which plays by its own grammatical rules (cf. our current President). Indeed, chicken fried chicken is chicken fried steak made with...chicken: boneless, skinless breasts. (Some like to add saltines to give the manmade skin a more ghetto-fabulous finish.) Commonly served with cream gravy, the results are often spectacular. The only real head-scratcher is that in a downhome city like St. Louis, this dish is so rare. All the better for Nadine's, a mainstay on Allen Avenue's hoosier highway that does up chicken fried chicken just right.
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