Taqueria el Bronco would have a much easier go of it if it were located in Austin, Los Angeles, Miami or any number of American cities that embrace, or at least acknowledge, their Hispanic communities. Instead this hole-in-the-wall taco shack is confined to the Mexican barrio along Cherokee Street, and few outside the neighborhood know of its existence. The rest of St. Louis is missing out. As the name suggests, tacos are El Bronco's specialty, and none are tastier than the tacos al pastor
-- authentic little morsels served on soft corn tortillas with nothing but onion, cilantro and a wedge of lime to accent savory marinated pork. Also of note are tacos de carne asada
, or steak tacos, served with a side of homemade tomatillo salsa. Note to the culinarily adventurous: Stop in Saturday or Sunday, when proprietor Santiago Flores serves up "head tacos" made with meat from, yep, a steamed steer's head.