Peruse most any seafood counter in our third-coast city and you're likely to find a few formerly frozen salmon steaks, a cut or two of graying ahi tuna and the cloudy-eyed remains of a few river fish. Not so the seafood counter at Olive Farmers Market. On any given day, a visit to this Chinatown stalwart yields aquariums filled with live catfish and eels. Iced down for the gastroscenti's delectation are fresh specimens of whole snapper, flounder and several species that tax a landlubber's skills of piscine taxonomy. But that's probably because it's so hard to look past the elevated ponds the folks at Olive Farmers Market have placed front and center. Filled with live littleneck clams, mussels, geoducks (that's pronounced GOO-ee duhks, for the uninitiated), Maine lobsters and blue crabs, these freestanding water trays are sort of like a millennialist's vision of an aquatic New Earth: You don't so much "buy" your dinner at Olive Farmers Market as fish for it.