The all-you-can-eat lunch buffet is as much a part of the Indian restaurant experience as naan, pappadam and tandoori chicken. But you can't compare buffets by the same standards you use to compare the restaurants as a whole. Some great Indian restaurants treat the buffet as a breather; some very good restaurants rise to greatness at lunchtime. Of course, the restaurant has to be good to begin with. Though just one year old, Flavor of India is very good. (That shouldn't surprise fans of local Indian cuisine: Both the head chef and manager used to work at St. Louis favorite House of India.) A great lunch buffet also needs frequent turnover, and Flavor of India's location near the intersection of Olive and I-270 draws a noontime crowd. And a great lunch buffet must lavish care on popular items and specials alike. Flavor of India always offers freshly baked naan, tender tandoori chicken and crisp pakora — as well as the occasional delicious goat curry. Seconds are a given, thirds and fourths a very strong possibility.