Remarkably, La Dolce Via remains open for dinner only twice a week. This must mean our plan is working! Once we sampled chef Ramon Cuffie's brief, market-driven menu, we knew we didn't want to share it with anyone else. It's an informal meal, the "dining room" very much the café that La Dolce Via usually is, the wine served in juice glasses. But you won't notice once Cuffie's dishes arrive. On our visits, we've enjoyed a brilliant pairing of salmon and split-pea broth, deeply flavored chicken confit and beef drizzled with fifteen-year-old balsamic vinegar. And of course we always finish with a selection or two from La Dolce Via's amazing array of baked goods. You should try it, too. You didn't hear it from us, though. In fact, burn this newspaper as soon as you've finished reading it.