Comments (0) Best Tapas/Small Plates - 2007
Erato
Chef Kevin WillmannEmploys the "small plates" conceptTo its best effect.His dishes aren't mereAppetizers disguised asTapas or small plates.He treats each like aMiniature work of art:Plump cubes of tuna,Sushi-grade, served witha streak of truffled mustardflecked with balsamicCandied into specks,The autumnal colors likeA Rothko painting.Or a pair of soups:Corn and fennel, tomatoAnd garlic. Both thickAnd brightly colored,One strong and verdant, the otherMild, but with zip.Beauty in restraint,As in the form of Bach's fugues.A perfect haiku.
