Much of the debate about what constitutes great chicken wings is misplaced. Folks like to argue the merits of the classic Buffalo preparation — a mixture of butter and hot sauce with a side of blue cheese — versus newfangled variations like habanero, jerk, Thai, etc. But great wings can be judged on two factors: the size of wing and the heft of the sauce. It's about coating the wing, not dipping. And the wing needs the Goldilocks treatment: not too big, not too small — just right. BARcelona Tapas Restaurant's alas de pollo get it just right indeed. The wings are coated with olive oil, smeared with hot pepper and bathed in toasted slivers of garlic. Every bite, therefore, is imbued with a garlicky, peppery goodness. And the side of sherry mayonnaise adds just enough to push it all over the top.