The U has a winning reputation for slinging up hot sandwiches into the wee small hours (witness last year's pick for Best Place for Late-Night Dining), but the midtown joint does more than just sizzle sammies on its flattop grill. The fries at the U come with a bevy of options: plain, with cheese sauce, or with housemade ranch dressing and crumbled bacon. All are great accompaniments to any sandwich or perfect for a late-night snack, but it's the "loaded" cheese fries — cheese sauce, chili, bacon and green onions — that will send you to an early grave with a greasy smile on your face. Piled in a paper carton and served with the steam still wafting from the top of the mound, these fries demand to be attacked with a fork — or be prepared for some very messy fingers.