Those who like laws and sausages, an old saying goes, should not see how either is made. Laws? True. Sausages? Not so. How bad can any process be when it results in something as delicious as the salsiccia at Joe Fassi Sausage & Sandwich Factory? The sausage itself — the recipe has been passed down through eight decades to current owner Tom Coll — is ideal: the meat tender, the flavor beautifully balanced between pork and fennel. Combined with tomato sauce on crusty bread (the No. 10), it is downright heavenly. Best of all, with or without cheese, it will cost you less than $6. You would be hard-pressed to spend much more here. Most of the sandwiches are the same price as the salsiccia, and even a serving of pasta with meatballs, simple and delicious, will run you just under $8. Food this satisfying for so little scratch? It's almost criminal. Though, frankly, that's a law we'd absolutely hate to see made.
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