At first glance you might not recognize just how different the menu at Milagro Modern Mexican is from St. Louis' many Mexican restaurants. The dishes are familiar: tostadas, enchiladas, quesadillas. Blame the complimentary chips and salsa for luring you into a false sense of security. Look more closely. The tostadas are topped with duck and a tart, searingly spicy blood-orange-habanero salsa, while the enchiladas feature seafood, duck and tomatillos rather than chicken and "red" sauce. The quesadillas tradicionales will introduce you to huitlacoche, a beguiling mushroom-like food that not for nothing is sometimes called the "Mexican truffle." Want to venture even further from the tried and true? Lamb barbacoa, chicken in a rich, complex mole and salmon grilled in a banana leaf are entrée standouts. Milagro might not meet the Church's criteria for a miracle, but brothers Adam and Jason Tilford have given St. Louis something new and delicious. Sometimes that's miracle enough.
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