Yummies Soul Food Café's name isn't boastful; it's a statement of fact. Forgoing soul food dished up cafeteria-style, servers at the small Compton Heights café seat patrons in draped chairs and offer tiny bites of the restaurant's signature banana pudding to whet the appetite. And that appetite needs to be in gear for the expansive menu, which focuses on the traditional Southern "meat and two/three" concept — pick a main dish and two sides at lunch, or three sides at dinner. Entrée offerings change daily, from classic fried chicken and pork steaks to long-simmered chicken-and-dumplings and fork-tender cube steak smothered in onion gravy. Yummies masters the ratio of macaroni & cheese: It's not soupy or filled with globs of cheese; it's rich and velvety with the sharp bite of cheddar. The fried corn's both creamy and crunchy. Everything's balanced. Flavors and textures. Comfort and speed — it's as fast as cafeteria service but without the lineup. And that banana pudding? Creamy, mildly sweet and studded with vanilla wafers. And sugar- and fat-free. Yummy.
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