The great American chef Thomas Keller prefers to build a meal out of a succession of small courses because he believes that after a few bites the act of eating a dish — no matter how good — loses its excitement and becomes rote. You can see for yourself at Taste by Niche, where the prodigious talents of Gerard Craft are distilled into dishes that you can vanquish in a couple of bites but that linger in your memory: octopus more tender than you thought possible, a simple bruschetta topped with garlic and roasted radishes, meatballs whose flavor are the very essence of pork. The menu changes often — all the more reason to return again and again to sample each new small piece of excitement. Best of all, you can work your way through the entire bill of fare on one visit and still have room for dessert.
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