Bogart's Smokehouse, the new venture from Pappy's Smokehouse pitmaster Skip Steele, sports a hog on its logo, but pork might be the least interesting meat on the menu here. Which is saying something, because Bogart's pork ribs are killer: smoked over apple- and cherrywood and finished with an apricot glaze that Steele caramelizes using a propane torch. Blame the thrill of the new and unusual. Bogart's offers a duo of unlikely but irresistible barbecue options, pastrami and prime rib. The former would inspire envy in the oldest of old-school New York delis; the latter, topped with smoked onions, is a sandwich of the highest orders. There are conventional meats, too -- beef brisket, pulled pork, smoked turkey -- all of them excellent. Be sure to order the beans as one of your sides: Cooked beneath the brisket, bathed in its drippings, they might be the meatiest dish in the entire joint.
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