On Washington Avenue, maybe more so than anywhere else in St. Louis, beauty can blind you to the truth. And, make no mistake, Prime 1000 is a beautiful restaurant, seamlessly blending the old (exposed brick), the new (modernist light fixtures) and the timeless (swank leather seats). Thankfully for carnivores, beyond all this sizzle, there is steak — prime cuts, in fact, dry-aged in a chamber that you can view just behind the host's stand. The rib eye, especially, is otherworldly, butter-tender, with a rich, complex flavor. The sides transcend the steak-house standard: the mac & cheese made with smoked white cheddar, for instance. The kitchen here has serious chops, and the highest compliment you can pay Prime 1000 is that even if you don't order a steak, you'll toddle home fat and happy.
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