You can buy booze at La Tejana Taqueria. Cowboy boots, too. In fact, you enter this north-county joint through the adjacent liquor store. Buy a bottle of beer while you're passing through. (You'll pay slightly above retail if you drink it with your meal.) The dining room is about as casual as a dining room can be — the menu is written by hand and taped to the wall, one dish per sheet of paper — but the food that comes out of the kitchen is serious business. Of course, there are tacos. The tastiest of these might be the tacos de cabeza, made with meat from the head of the cow, the flavor brawny, the texture streaked with luscious fat. If you can, though, visit on the weekend, when La Tejana serves carnitas: the pork, simmered for hours in its own rendered lard and then crisped to order, is the apotheosis of pig. On some weekends during the summer, La Tejana sets up a taco stand in the parking lot. You should still stop inside the liquor store and restaurant, though. Those cowboy boots are mighty pretty.
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