Garlic fries are a high-wire act. A timid kitchen doses its fries with just a hint of garlic (or, worse, a splash of some kind of ungodly garlic-infused oil). These impart none of garlic's pleasures but still, somehow, manage to ruin your breath. A careless kitchen tosses its fries with so much garlic that a single bite is like going down on Emeril Lagasse. Walking the tightrope with confidence is Andrew Ladlie, owner and chef at Sassy JAC's. The garlic fries at this cozy Southern spot in Soulard feature excellent fries — crisp, medium-thick, with a tender interior — tossed with exactly the right amount of diced garlic to give them an addictive kick. They cost $5 for an appetizer-size portion; as a side for one of Sassy JAC's sandwiches, they're thrown in for free. Either way, they're a steal.
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