Holy Lady of Guadalupe, El Morelia Supermercado is a fun place to shop, especially on Sundays when a taco buffet — complete with seasoned pork on a vertical spit topped with a pineapple for al pastor fans — is served in the foyer. The happily crowded bazaar of colorful household goods vibrates to accordion-heavy narcocorridos wheezing from loudspeakers on high: Here are resin statues and seven-day glass candles of Jesus Malverde, patron saint of drug dealers; bottle openers with chile-pepper-shaped handles; aceite de oso shampoo. It's not only educational to shop here, but epicurean, too. Prickly pear fruit, whole coconuts, cinnamon pastries, knobs of caramel, jars of wormy-looking date palm and yellow cherries that resemble eyeballs abound. Back at the meat counter, free samples of freshly fried chicarrones are served with a fiery green salsa, and the mustachioed butcher will smirk as you break into a gringo sweat after just one taste. Take a swig of sangria soda, wait for your vision to clear and then smile! The tequila selection in the next section is Aztecan in scope and grandeur.
Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.