Monday, May 24, 2010

A Visit to Burger Brothers at River City Casino

Posted By on Mon, May 24, 2010 at 2:42 PM

click to enlarge Burger and fries at Burger Brothers in River City Casino - IAN FROEB
  • Ian Froeb
  • Burger and fries at Burger Brothers in River City Casino
At Burger Bar, the Hubert Keller-helmed burger joint at Pinnacle Entertainment's Lumière Place casino, your burger is limited only by your imagination. You want foie gras and black truffle atop your Kobe beef? Check. You want a plain old burger topped with anchovies? That works too.

At Burger Brothers, the burger joint at Pinnacle Entertainment's new River City Casino, your burger is just plain limited.

The set-up is Five Guys Burgers & Fries without the charm: You order at the register and wait for your number to be called. Whether you intend to eat at the restaurant or take your food to go, your burger is wrapped up and placed inside a paper bag. Each order of fries is served in a bag, which is then tucked inside the larger bag holding your burger.

The actual dining space looks like a generic fast-food restaurant, sterile and uncomfortable. The menu is simple enough: burger, fries, beverages. Your burger ($6.75) comes with lettuce, tomato and pickle. You can add cheddar cheese (free) and/or applewood-smoked bacon ($1). And that's it.

Two things you should know before you order:

1) The default cooking temperature at Burger Brothers is well done.

2) Unlike at Five Guys, where burgers are only served well done but the patties are so thin that it hardly matters, at Burger Brothers the patties are medium thick so the difference in flavor and texture even between medium-well and well done -- to say nothing of medium or medium-rare -- is significant.

I learned these two lessons the hard way. My burger wasn't a burnt puck, but it wasn't especially juicy, either. There was a strong, though not overbearing, char flavor from the grill, but the flavor of the ground beef was muted. The bacon, as you can tell from its claw-like appearance in the photo above, was plentiful.

I'll try the burger again, at a different temperature, before rendering a final judgment on it. As a dining experience, however, Burger Brothers lacks the "Wow Factor" that most other Pinnacle Entertainment restaurants offer.

Burger Brothers, River City Casino

777 River City Casino Boulevard
314-388-7777

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