Monday, August 30, 2010
#57: Pupusas at Tres Banderas
By Ian Froeb
on Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 2:08 PM
The pupusa is something like a cross between a quesadilla and a tamale. The tortilla itself has masa's mild sweetness, though here the flavor is deepened by the browning the exterior receives. Fillings at Tres Banderas are cheese, chicken or carnitas -- though on my visit, only the first two were available. I ordered one of each. Both brought a generous amount of gooey, tangy cheese. The chicken almost didn't matter.
Traditionally, the pupusa is topped with a cabbage slaw called curtido
, which adds a slight tartness to the dish, and red salsa. At $2.99 each, two of these make for a filling (not grossly so), utterly delicious and cheap lunch.Tres Banderas
15939 Manchester Road, Ellisville
$2.99 eachI'm counting down -- in no particular order -- 100 of my favorite dishes in St. Louis. Some are well-known, others obscure. Some are expensive, others dirt cheap. All of them, I guarantee, are delicious. Please do not hesitate to share your own favorites via the comments thread.
Previously:#58: Gumbo at the Gumbo Shop#59: The burger at Newstead Tower Public House#60: Quesadillas tradicionales at Milagro Modern Mexican#61: "7th Street Sicilian" Po' Boy at Blues City Deli#62: Tamales at Taqueria la Pasadita#63: Ćevapi at Bosna Gold#64: Lemon meringue and pine nut torte at BitterSweet Bakery#65: Chile Morita con Puerco at Señor Pique#66: Soda chanh duong (sparkling lemonade) at Lemon Grass#67: Nachos grande at Nachomama's#68: Pizza with pepperoni, sausage and mushroom at Pizza-a-Go-Go#69: Bill's "Burger Meister Burger" at Cardwell's at the Plaza#70: Sake (salmon) nigiri sushi at Nobu's Japanese Restaurant
The pupusa is a Salvadoran specialty, a thick corn-meal tortilla stuffed with cheese, meat or beans. I know of only one area restaurant that has them: Tres Banderas, which is located in the strip mall at the northwest corner of Manchester and Clarkson Roads in Ellisville.