Tuesday, November 9, 2010

#39: The "Papasan Roll" at Miso on Meramec

Posted By on Tue, Nov 9, 2010 at 11:37 AM

The "Papasan Roll" at Miso on Meramec - JENNIFER SILVERBERG
  • Jennifer Silverberg
  • The "Papasan Roll" at Miso on Meramec
I must admit that, in general, I'm not a fan of the rolls so prevalent at American sushi joints -- your Philadelphia, California and spider rolls. I'd rather concentrate on nigiri sushi, sashimi and traditional futomaki rolls. At Miso on Meramec I happily eat my words. The rolls introduced by sushi chef Eliott Harris, grouped together on the menu under the "Miso Revolution" tag, are the stars of this show.

The "Papasan Roll" is the standout. Inside is a straightforward combination of cucumber, avocado and snow-crab meat. Draped atop the rice outside the roll is a piece of striped bass. (The most underrated sushi fish, in my estimation: It possesses a lovely ocean flavor without being at all fishy.) Atop the striped bass is a sliver of raw jalapeño and a red-chile aioli.

The top of the dish is lightly seared, imparting a subtle but enticing aroma as your server presents it. The contrast in textures between the jalapeño, the fish and the avocado is wonderful. The avocado and cucumber offer a cooling antidote for the jalapeño's heat, while the crab and bass anchor the roll with the perfect balance of sweet and savory.

(from "Sea Change," June 18, 2009)

Miso on Meramec
16 North Meramec Avenue, Clayton
314-863-7888
$16

I'm counting down -- in no particular order -- 100 of my favorite dishes in St. Louis. Some are well-known, others obscure. Some are expensive, others dirt cheap. All of them, I guarantee, are delicious. Please do not hesitate to share your own favorites via the comments thread.

Previously:

#40: Lasagna at Mama Josephine's

#41: The "Bucktown" Pizza at Pi Pizzeria
#42: Pla song kruang at Basil Spice Thai Cuisine
#43: Chori pollo at Mi Ranchito
#44: Pizza at La Pizza
#45: Fried chicken at Young's Restaurant & Ice Creamery
#46: The Philly Cheesesteak at 9th Street Deli
#47: Smoked chicken wings at Flavors BBQ Sports Bar & Grill
#48: Coffee and a pastry at 222 Artisan Bakery
#49: The torta ahogada at Taqueria Durango
#50: The "Morganford Mediterranean" Sandwich at Local Harvest Café & Catering

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